Jaladurga – The Frontier Fort of South India

Since time immemorial, humans have relied on natural defenses provided by nature to protect themselves from the natural and man-made calamities. For us Indians, whether it is the Himalayas in the north or the three seas surrounding us in the East, West and South, nature has provided a sense of security from enemy attacks and played a pivotal role in defining the geographical and cultural boundaries of the Indian Subcontinent.

In spite of being endowed with such natural defense, we Indians have been subject to large scale invasions, attacks and plunders from many foreign invaders and marauders during medieval times. At all such times, man-made structures of defense – forts have played a pivotal role in shaping the outcome of the conflict and thus shaping our history and in a way, the course of the future.

Today, we bring to you, one such fort from North Karnataka’s Raichur district that might be termed as the frontier fort of South India – Jaladurga Fort.

Jaladurga Fort is situated in a small town by same in of Lingasugur Taluka, Raichur District in North Karnataka. 

River Krishna that originates in Maharashtra, after passing by the Chalukyan era Kopeshwar Mandir in Khidrapur enters Karnataka in Belagavi district. The river passes through Bagalakote and Vijayapura districts where it has the biggest dam on river Krishna at Almatti. The dam on river Krishna at Almatti is named after former Prime Minister of India – Sri Lal Bahadur Shastri dam.

Approximately 65km downstream, as river Krishna enters Raichur district, there is another small dam at a small town named Narayanapur. Here, this dam is called Basava Sagar dam after 12th century poet, saint, philosopher Basavanna.

As the water flows out of Basava Sagar dam at Narayanapur, it first forms small ravines as it reaches Chayabhagavati Temple about 1.5km downstream. Another km downstream, the ravine turns into a gorge and finally a wide canyon when the eastbound river splits into two streams forming a large island. The river probably had turbulent and wide streams in the past but due to the dam withholding the water, today the northern stream is heavy the southern stream is but a rivulet.

The fort at Jaladurga is situated on this island overlooking the mighty river Krishna as it flows down splitting at Jaladurga Fort. Most of the fort has succumbed to the travesties of time but what ruins have been left behind form stunning visuals with a large valley strewn with pink and white bounders in the riverbed decorated with horizontal stripes by varying water levels, the viewpoint of Jaladurga Fort is definitely worth the visit.

Not much recorded history is available about the fort in media. According to one account on Wikipedia, there is a guess that Jaladurga Fort might have been built by the Vijayapura Shahs but logic seems to defy the claim. There are several reasons and here is the reasoning:

1. The Fort is situated on the island in river Krishna. One side of the river is present day Vijayapura district (formerly Bijapur Sultanate), on the other side, we have Raichur district that was the provincial capital of Vijayanagara Kings. The district of Raichur has also changed hands several times in the past including being ruled by Kakatiyas of Warangal and the Bahaman Sultans of Gulbarga (present day Kalaburagi)
2. Forts would generally have tall bastions overlooking the direction of enemy lines. In case of Jaladurga Fort, the bastions that survive today overlook the direction of Vijayapura (Bijapur). Why would a king or a Shah build fort with bastions facing their own direction?
3. The Main Gate of any Fort is generally built int he direction from where the reinforcements and provisions could enter the Fort quickly during a siege. In case of Jaladurga Fort, the main gate of the fort is in Raichur’s direction that is opposite to Vijayapura.
4. Until further research, excavation and study of various artefacts and relics is carried out by the historians and archaeologists, the origin of the fort will remain part of unknown history.

A trip to Jaladurga Fort is meant for an adventurous kind as the place is not on a popular tourist circuit. It is in remote parts of Karnataka’s northern district of Raichur. The road from Lingasugur is fairly motorable, it passes through several small villages and the village of Jaladurga can be reached by crossing the bridge built on the southern stream of the river.

The vehicles go up to the foot of the hill on which the fort is location. The tourism department has built a park, the concrete road and steps that lead up to the fort. The vehicles need to be parked here and go up the ram and the steps. In all, there would be about 150-200 steps to climb, but the climb is not hard.

The entire fort is spread across vast space but the walk up to the viewpoint and back to your vehicle would be about 1km to 1.5km.

There are a few houses and a temple in the fort’s premises. The people here have cattle and watchdogs, but the dogs are used to visitors, and do not attack or interfere unless provoked. The location needs further development including markers, lighting and tourist amenities.

There are no guides or guided tours but the locals sitting in the village might oblige and show you around if you ask them nicely.

Though it is an island, Jaladurga Fort can be reached by the road bridge. Nearest big town is the taluka headquarters – Lingasugur which is situated at a distance of 20km. There may not be many buses plying from different towns or cities to Jaladurga Fort but the town of Lingasugur has good bus connectivity from different towns and cities including from Bengaluru, Raichur, Kalaburagi, Vijayapura and few other districts.

Last mile connectivity to Jaladurga may be possible by private vehicle or a taxi that can be hired at Lingasugur.

Nearest railway station to Jaladurga would be Raichur (about 115km) followed by Yadgir (approximately 127km).

1. Chayabhagavati Temple – a temple on the other side of river Krishna, about 1.25km upstream but around 40-45km by road. This is one of the very few temples dedicated to Chaya Devi – the second consort of Sun God Surya and mother to Shani Dev.
2. Talikoti Fort – situated in Talikoti town of Vijayapura district, the fort and the town was a witness to the bloodiest battle of 1565 that changed the fate of mighty Vijayanagara Empire and entire South India forever.
3. Hutti Gold Mines – One of the oldest gold mines of India and only active gold mine in present day, Hutti is situated at a distance of 30km from Jaladurga Fort and about 12km from Lingasugur. Visitors and tourists are permitted on specific days. Try and get prior appointment to avoid disappointments.