Chaya Bhagavati – The Goddess of Reflections

As river Krishna flows downstream from Basavasagara Dam built at Narayanapur – a small laid back agrarian town, the riverbed strewn with granite rocks – pink and white in colour paint a serene yet turbulent landscape. Situated on this riverbank at Narayanapur is a very unique temple dedicated to Goddess Chaya – also referred to locally as Chayabhagavati or Chayamma.

Perhaps, this is the only known temple dedicated to the Goddess of reflections and shadows. But then, there is no dearth of unique temples on the banks of river Krishna, especially in this part of the country.

Among all the ancient civilizations across the world, Sun has been worshipped as God since time immemorial. Whether it is “Ra” of the Egyptians, “Helios” of the Greeks, “Sol” of the Roman and Norse beliefs or “Kinich Ahau” of the Mayan civilization. In Hinduism, the solar deity is referred to as “Surya” or “Aditya” – son of “Aditi”. He is worshipped among Hindus as the embodiment of all Gods and the origin of all knowledge and life in the universe. He is the source of light, heat and the central power around whom all the celestial bodies in our “Brahmanda” move. In Hindu iconography, Sun god Surya is depicted as riding on a chariot driven by seven horses. These seven horses represent the seven days of the week and seven colors of the spectrum. The charioteer of Surya is Arun.

The story of Chaya starts when Surya marries Sanjna (also known as Sandhya) – daughter of the celestial architect and divine master craftsman Vishwakarma. Unable to handle Surya’s intense heat and brilliance, Sanjna tries to abandon Surya. To avoid his wrath, she decides to create her look-alike from her own reflection. This look-alike woman created out of Sanjna’s image or reflection is named Chaya. She is also referred to as Savarni which in Sanskrit means similar or same. Sanjna tasks Chaya to take her place beside Surya. There are several varying accounts of where Sanjna goes and what she does from here, but Chaya dutifully serves Surya as his consort and begets him three children –

1. 1) Shani – the God of planet Saturn among Navagrahas and enforcer of Karma
2. 2) Savarni Manu – the master of next Manvantara as per Hindu calendar when the current Vaivasvat Manvantara end
3. 3) Tapti – the deity Goddess of river Tapti that originates in Multai, Madhya Pradesh. Tapti was married to Samvarana and had a son named Kuru – the ancestor or Moolapurusha or Kaurava dynasty.

There are many prominent temples dedicated to Sun god surya in India and other Asian countries with Hindu influence. The prominent ones in India that come to mind are Sun Temple at Konark, Odisha, the Suryamarthanda Temple in Jammu Kashmir, the Sun Temple at Modhera, Gujarat among thousands of temples. Temples dedicated to Sun god can be found in other parts of the world too. Yet, there are no known temples dedicated to Surya’s second consort Chaya Devi apart from the one situated on the banks of river Krishna at Narayanapur village in North Karnataka.

The temple consists of a garbha griha or the inner sanctum and a porch/portico outside. The inner sanctum is a natural cave formed by the large boulders on the bank of river Krishna. Later day constructions and reinforcements have made the cave look like a temple. Inside the garbhagriha, the Goddess is worshipped in the form of “paada”, or foot marks etched on a stone. There is no stone statue of the Goddess as one would typically find or expect inside a temple. There are however “Utsava murthy” or the ceremonial metal idols that are brought in to worship during special ceremonies and festivals. The ceremonial idols and other paraphernalia are under the custody of the temple management and the chief priest.

The temple is at such a location inside a cave and the Sun passes by on most days of the year without its light entering the inner sanctum. Yes, on the auspicious day of Akshaya Tritiya – the third lunar day of the Vaishakha or Vasantha month of Hindu calendar, the golden rays of Sun enter the sanctum and fall upon the deity inside the temple. This unique phenomenon is witnessed every year by hundreds of devotees who gather at Chayabhagavati Temple on the festive day.

The devotees who gather at Chayabhagavati Temple to witness this nature’s divinity also take a dip in the holy waters of river Krishna. There are 18 different teerthas or bathing points – some very easy and others tough. Devotees believe that taking bath at all 18 teerthas on Akshayatritiya absolves one of all their past sins and prepares them for the path of Moksha.

Chayabhagavati Temple is situated at a distance of 4-5km from Narayanapur town. The town falls under the limits of newly formed Hunasigi Taluk of Yadgir district. Prior to the formation of Yadgir district, it was part of Gulbarga district and Shorapur (Surpur) taluka. The temple had patronage from the former princely state of the Surpur Nayakas.

Narayanapur is situated at a distance of 34km from Hunasigi, 68km from Surpur, 30km from nearby Lingasugur taluka of Raichur district. There are buses that ply from Lingasugur and Hunasigi several times a day to Narayanapur. Autorickshaws available at Narayanapur bus stand provide the much-needed connectivity to the temple.

If you are traveling by your own vehicle, you can take your vehicle up to the temple parking area which is at a higher ground. From the parking area, you have to climb down about 20-25 steps to reach the temple. The same steps also go further down to the river.

The temple is situated on the banks of holy river Krishna. The Basavasagara dam at Narayanapur is about 5km upstream. Quite often, the gushing water of river Krishna is held back in the dam and the flow downstream is controlled for irrigation purposes most part of the year. During the monsoon season, when heavy rains in the catchment areas of river Krishna – all the way from Mahabaleshwar in Maharashtra to Almatti dam in Vijayapura district, Karnataka – accumulate enough water, the Basavasagara dam gates are opened. This creates a temporary flood situation and the Chayabhagavati Temple gets partially submerged or isolated for a few days. This typically happens in the monsoon months of September and the local newspapers and internet news portals cover this news. Plan your visit keeping this in mind.

There are few small lodges around the bus stand in Narayanapur but better travel facilities are available in Lingasugur, Surpur and Talikoti. The inspection bungalow at Narayanapur Dam might be able to provide some accommodation with prior intimation.

There are few small-time eateries available in Narayanapur town and relatively better restaurants are available in Lingasugur and Surpur. It is advised to pack fruits and dry snacks – a picnic basket if you are particular about food or bringing kids / elders with dietary restrictions.

1. Jaladurga Fort – a medieval fort on the opposite bank of river Krishna – only a few kilometers downstream but takes about 40-45km by road.
2. Talikoti Fort – situated in Talikoti town of Vijayapura district, the fort and the town was a witness to the bloodiest battle of 1565 that changed the fate of mighty Vijayanagara Empire and entire South India forever.
3. Hutti Gold Mines – One of the oldest gold mines of India and only active gold mine in present day, Hutti is situated at a distance of 70km from Naranayapur and about 12km from LIngasugur. Visitors and tourists are permitted on specific days. Try and get prior appointment to avoid disappointments.